On our first evening, Sarah Jane took us to the local fish market, where heaps of gleaming silver, red, and blue fish, octopi, and assorted other sea creatures lay on slabs surrounded by a throng of purchasers. Not knowing many of the species on offer, we chose a kingfish and took it across the road to a large room where men with sharp knives were ready to decapitate, gut, fillet, chop or anything else you might desire. Our man was surprised that we did not want the backbone and set it aside for himself.
The following morning, Michael got up early and strolled out to the nearby harbour, where the fishing boats were tied up.
At lunch time, we took some sandwiches out to a secluded hilltop overlooking the turquoise sea.
Later, as the sun was sinking, we drove out to Wadi Bih to be awed by the creased mountains rising steeply out of the wadi (valley) floor, which was flat as a tabletop and dotted with thorn trees.